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Highlands of Central India

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The Blog

Himalayan Foothills and the Jungles of Terai
This unique itinerary explores the Bhabar and Terai jungles of Uttarakhand and Uttar Pradesh; regions that boast remarkable biodiversity. The Bhabar supports species adapted to drier conditions, such as leopards, wild boars, and various reptiles. The Terai, with its lush vegetation and wetlands, provides a[…]
What’s in your camera bag?
“What’s in your camera bag?” is a question I am frequently asked and one that always gets the same response – “It depends where I’m going.”
Just ‘cos you’ve got lots of lenses doesn’t mean you have to take them all.
If at all possible, try to take a combination that means you won’t need to constantly be changing lenses. Dust is a massive problem in Africa and every time you change lenses you are opening up both camera and lens to a potential dust invasion.
Umred Karhandla Paoni Wildlife Sanctuary
Community Owned Community Operated Nature (COCOON Conservancy) Conservancies are critical rewilding initiatives undertaken outside India’s Protective Area Network. Based on the underlying premise that communities living closest to our most biodiverse wonderlands deserve to be the primary beneficiaries and custodians of our biodiversity this initiative expands the size and improves the quality of habitat available to wildlife by encouraging local communities to convert their own marginal and failed farms back to their natural wild state.
Manas NP, Assam. Tough but rewarding.
Amazingly, the weather held for the whole day and our afternoon drive also enjoyed decent weather. The sky was blue and the air was wonderfully clear.
I would have loved to go back and sit near the Broadbill nests but I did not have the only vote and my travelling companions wanted to get out of the jungle onto the plains where they could see some of the larger mammals.
Kaziranga NP, Assam’s One-horned Rhino sanctuary
Kaziranga is a lovely park to visit with plenty of water bodies and lots of open plains making it easy to see the wildlife.
In fact, I saw more mammals on my first drive in Kaziranga than I’d seen in a week at Tadoba, and a large percentage of them were One-horned Rhinos. The park has almost 2,700 rhinos, almost twice as many rhinos as Swamp Deer (1,800) Elephants were plentiful too, as were the Water Buffalo.
Assam, India’s tea country
With tea estates on both sides of the road it was immediately clear that we were in tea country.
For our stay we had chosen a property surrounded by tea plantations called Banyan Grove. In fact Banyan Grove was formerly the residence of the Deputy Plantation Manager for the Gatoonga Tea Estate.
Banyan Grove is one of a small collection of properties owned/operated by Heritage Northeast ( https://www.heritagetourismindia.com/ ). It is a wonderful old building surrounded by lawns, although the original Banyan tree that gave it its name has long since died.
Sundarbans
The Sundarbans is an area that has long appealed to me and finally I was getting the chance to visit. Touted as the National Park with the highest number of tigers in India it is also listed among India’ top birding locations, so I had[…]
Walking around Kolkata; Mallick Ghat and Kumortuli
I’m not a big fan of cities, but as almost every visit to India requires spending at least 1 night in the city where the international flight arrives. Usually time in cities is kept to an absolute minimum and we head straight out in search of wildlife but, as this was my first visit to Kolkata, I thought it might be fun to stay a couple of days and have a look around.
Choosing the right lenses for your safari. Updated
Probably one of the most frequent questions we get asked by clients is “What lenses should I take on safari?”
This question is not limited to first timers either; because the equipment you need to take depends very much on where you are going and what the conditions will be like. Photographing rhinos on the plains of Kaziranga NP requires a different approach to photographing sloth bears in the forest at dusk, and photographing birds is very different to photographing elephants.
So how do you make the right selection?
Birding in Goa
I’ve always considered photographing birds to be a fairly leisurely pursuit. Certainly, for me anyway, it usually involves strolling about the countryside armed with a camera to see what little beauties I can capture.I’m not a ‘twitcher’, not even a proper ‘birder’ really, just a[…]
Sundarbans to Singalila
Sunderbans Biosphere Reserve, Manas National Park, Gorumara National Park, Singalila National Park, Glenburn Tea Estate India has 50 Tiger reserves, governed by Project Tiger which is, in turn, administrated by the National Tiger Conservation Authority (NTCA) and 104 National Parks. Some of these reserves and[…]
Foothills of the Himalaya
This is not the happiest of times; thanks to Covid-19 we’re grounded and all short term travel plans have had to be cancelled.Worse still, just about the only calls we’re getting from clients are to rearrange (or even cancel) trips that are already booked, not[…]
Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve
Ranthambore National Park is one of the biggest and most renowned national parks in Northern India, covering 282 km². Ranthambhore was established as the Sawai Madhopur Game Sanctuary in 1955 by the Government of India and was declared one of the Project Tiger reserves in 1973. Ranthambhore became a national park[…]
Mela Kothi – Chambal Safari Lodge
It’s hard to believe, as you negotiate the hurly burly of Agra’s traffic, that less than 2 hours away is a place that offers clean air and serenity. Yet that is exactly what you’ll find at Mela Kothi. Nestling amidst acres of woodland and pasture,[…]
Leopard Country
For most travellers heading to India in search of wildlife it is the tiger that tops their wish list and there is no better place to see these magnificent big cats in the wild.But whilst the tiger is India’s most iconic predator there is another[…]

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